Slab Leaks in the Hill Country: Early Clues, Real Costs, and How Pros Actually Fix Them

If you’ve ever stepped onto a strangely warm bathroom tile in the middle of July, noticed your water bill creeping up for no reason, or heard a faint hiss when the house is quiet, your Hill Country home might be sending a not-so-subtle message: slab leak. Around New Braunfels—and across limestone country—slab leaks are a real thing. Our soil shifts with drought and rain cycles, older copper lines rub against rough concrete, and tiny pinholes can turn into big problems fast.

This guide is written to de-stress the process. We’ll cover the early signs you can spot, what “real costs” actually means (no scare tactics), and the exact playbook our team uses to find and fix slab leaks cleanly, safely, and with long-term results. When you’re ready for help, start with Leak Detection, then we’ll talk through Excavation and Piping & Repiping options if a repair or reroute makes more sense.

First: What is a slab leak?

Most Hill Country homes sit on a concrete slab foundation. Fresh water supply lines (often copper or PEX in newer builds) run underneath that slab. A slab leak happens when one of those pressurized lines develops a pinhole, split, or failed joint below the concrete. Because the line is under pressure, it constantly feeds water into the soil and—eventually—into your foundation and living space.

Left alone, slab leaks can:

• Undermine soils and spur foundation movement

• Feed mold behind baseboards and in wall cavities

• Waste thousands of gallons and spike utility bills

• Damage flooring, cabinets, and finishes

Catching them early is the difference between a controlled repair and an insurance claim.

Early clues (that homeowners actually notice)

You don’t need special equipment to suspect a slab leak. Watch for:

1. Warm spots on hard floors

   Classic sign of a hot-water line leak under tile, vinyl, or engineered wood. It can feel like a small radiant heater you never installed.

2. The hissing/whisper test

   When the house is quiet, turn off every faucet, appliance, and toilet fill. If you still hear a faint hiss or trickle, water is moving somewhere it shouldn’t.

3. Water meter that never rests

   With fixtures off, check your water meter. If the leak indicator spins or the dial advances, you have a hidden pressurized leak.

4. Randomly running water heater

   If your water heater fires more often than usual with no demand, a hot-side leak could be bleeding heat under the slab.

5. Unexplained bill creep or damp baseboards

   Moisture wicking into baseboards, musty carpet edges, or that “why is the bill 30% higher?” moment are all flags.

6. Cracks that keep returning

   All slabs crack a little—but when moisture undermines soils, you may see new gaps or doors suddenly rubbing.

If two or more of these show up together, call Leak Detection and we’ll get you a fast, focused test plan.

What causes slab leaks in the Hill Country?

• Soil movement: Our region’s drought–deluge swings move soil. Movement stresses lines where they pass through or near rough concrete.

• Copper abrasion: Copper can rub on the slab edge as it expands and contracts (thermal cycling), creating pinholes over time.

• Electrolysis/corrosion: Stray current or dissimilar metal contact can pit copper, especially at fittings.

• Install issues: Tight bends, unprotected sleeves, or poor backfill can set a pipe up for failure years later.

• Water chemistry & heat: Hot water accelerates corrosion, and mineral content can contribute to pitting.

Understanding the “why” helps choose the right “how” for the repair—spot fix, reroute, or repipe.

What “real costs” actually means (no scare tactics)

Every home, line routing, and finish package is different, so honest pricing has to account for scope. Here’s how we break it down with customers:

• Detection scope

  Pinpointing saves money. We isolate hot vs. cold, pressure-test, and use acoustic/electronic location to mark the leak within inches. Accurate location can turn an all-day tear-out into a targeted repair.

• Access method

  • Interior jackhammer (surgical): Fast, minimal trenching, but involves dust control and concrete patch/finish repairs.

  • Exterior tunneling (when appropriate): Avoids interior demolition, great under kitchens/baths with nice finishes, but more soil work.

  • Wall/attic reroute: Bypass the slab entirely by running new piping above. Often the cleanest long-term play, especially if the line has multiple weak points.

• Repair type

  • Spot repair of a short section if the rest of the line tests healthy.

  • Reroute around the failure, abandoning the slab section.

  • **Sectional repipe or whole-home Piping & Repiping if we find widespread issues.

• Restoration

  Concrete patch, flooring repair, baseboard/paint, and cleanup. We protect your home during work and coordinate with you on any needed finish trades.

The honest truth: sometimes the cheapest today isn’t the least expensive overall. If we see multiple weak points or aging copper throughout, a reroute or targeted Piping & Repiping can stop the “leak today, leak somewhere else next month” cycle.

How pros actually diagnose a slab leak (our step-by-step)

1. Interview & symptom map

   We start with your story: when you noticed warmth, hissing, bill changes, or dampness. We map fixtures, note hot vs. cold symptoms, and inspect for visible moisture paths.

2. Meter & pressure confirmation

   With fixtures off, we confirm usage at the meter and pressure-test hot and cold lines independently. This immediately narrows the hunt.

3. Acoustic & electronic locating

   We use sensitive microphones and frequency filters while isolating sections. Hot-side leaks are easier to spot, but we also use tracer gas or thermal imaging when needed.

4. Camera (when waste lines are suspects)

   If the symptoms could be a drain/sewer issue instead, we scope the sanitary system to rule out a drain leak masquerading as a supply leak.

5. Mark and verify

   We’ll place tape/marks where we believe the failure is and walk you through access options and tradeoffs before any opening happens. Transparency is everything.

Book Leak Detection if you want this exact playbook—no guesswork, just a clean, methodical find.

Three proven repair paths (and when each wins)

A) Surgical spot repair (fix the exact break)

Best when: The rest of the line is healthy, the leak is near open floor, and finishes are modest/easy to restore.

What we do: Protect the area, cut and lift a small section of slab, repair the failed pipe segment with proper sleeves/fittings, backfill/compact, and patch concrete. We pressure-test before and after.

Pros: Fast, budget-friendly, minimal new pipe runs.

Considerations: If the pipe failed from abrasion or systemic corrosion, more pinholes may follow elsewhere.

B) Reroute above the slab (bypass the problem)

Best when: The failed line runs under cabinets/tubs or areas you don’t want demolished, or when the pipe shows multiple weak points.

What we do: Abandon the leaking section and run new PEX or copper through walls/ceilings/attic with proper insulation and protection plates. We keep holes surgical and patch/paint.

Pros: Avoids concrete dust inside living spaces, reduces future slab-related risk.

Considerations: Attic runs must be insulated and protected from UV and pests; longer pipe length may slightly affect balance unless sized correctly (we handle that).

C) Sectional repipe or full Piping & Repiping

Best when: Multiple leaks, advanced copper pitting, remodels planned, or you want a once-and-done solution.

What we do: Replace vulnerable branches or the entire domestic system with modern materials and smart routing. We add proper shutoffs, expansion control, and code-correct supports.

Pros: Long-term reliability, cleaner future service, better shutoff zones.

Considerations: Larger project planning—worth it when the alternative is chasing leaks.

If access under landscaping or the perimeter is tight, we may propose limited Excavation or tunneling to preserve interiors while still reaching the pipe safely.

Foundation, flooring, and dust: how we protect your home

• Containment & filtration: Zip walls, floor protection, negative-air filtration when cutting concrete.

• Noise & schedule: We coordinate loud tasks and communicate so pets and family can plan.

• Clean exit: Concrete patch is leveled and ready for your flooring pro; we remove debris and leave your home tidy.

We treat your home the way we want ours treated—no exceptions.

Insurance and documentation (what homeowners ask us most)

• Is a slab leak covered? Policies vary. Many cover the access and the resulting damage; coverage for the actual pipe repair depends on your policy.

• What do you provide? We document findings with photos, meter/pressure readings, thermal images (if used), and a simple narrative you can share with your adjuster.

• Do I need to call insurance first? If damage is limited and we can perform a surgical repair, some homeowners prefer to self-pay to avoid a claim. If you’ve got visible damage to floors/walls, call your carrier—we’ll help with scope notes.

What you can do today (before we arrive)

1. Turn off the water at the main shutoff if you see active pooling or hear loud hissing.

2. Turn off the water heater (gas to “pilot,” electric at the breaker) if a hot-side leak is suspected.

3. Move valuables away from damp baseboards or warm spots.

4. Snap photos of meter movement, wet areas, or warmth patterns (use a phone thermal app if you have one).

5. Schedule focused help: start with Leak Detection. If we confirm a leak, we’ll outline Excavation and Piping & Repiping options tailored to your home—side by side, clear and simple.

Why Hill Country homeowners choose Emergency Plumber LLC

• We pinpoint before we demo. Accurate location keeps your home intact and your invoice sane.

• Options, not pressure. Spot repair, reroute, or repipe—we price and explain all three. You choose.

• Prepared crews. We show up with locating gear, containment materials, pipe, fittings, and patch tools to minimize return trips.

• Local know-how. We’ve worked in everything from 1970s copper-on-concrete to brand-new PEX layouts in Canyon Lake builds, so we plan for your house’s reality.

• Clean work, clear communication. Daily updates, dust control, careful restoration, and a walk-through before we call it done.

FAQs

Could this be a sewer (drain) leak instead?

Yes—sewer leaks also happen under slabs, but they’re not pressurized. We rule this out with camera inspection and targeted testing so you don’t chase the wrong problem.

Can epoxy lining fix it without opening the slab?

Epoxy can work in some scenarios, but it’s not a cure-all for domestic water lines and isn’t always ideal for drinking-water service. We’ll tell you when it’s appropriate and when a reroute is safer.

How long does a typical repair take?

Detection is usually same-day. A surgical spot repair can be same-day or next-day depending on access; reroutes and repipes vary by scope. We timeline it before work begins.

Will my floors be ruined?

We’re surgical with access and protect adjacent finishes. If flooring removal is required, we coordinate so you know exactly what to expect and how to plan restoration.

What if I’m planning a remodel soon?

Great time to plan a reroute or Piping & Repiping while walls are open. It’s often more cost-effective and future-proofs the home.

Your next step

If you’re seeing warm tiles, hearing that faint hiss, or watching the meter spin while every faucet is off—don’t wait. Book Leak Detection so we can pinpoint the problem fast and walk you through clean, sensible options. If access under the slab or perimeter is the smart path, we’ll handle the Excavation. And when a longer-term fix makes more sense, we’ll map a clean Piping & Repiping plan that stops the cycle for good.

Slab leaks are stressful. The process to fix them doesn’t have to be. We’ll find it, show it, and fix it—clearly and cleanly—so your home stays solid and dry for the long run.